It's All in The Little Details

Mount Kilimanjaro, Tanzania, Machame Route
Saturday, February 16th, 2013

Day #3 – Shira Hut to Baranco Hut via Lava Rock

Time Started: 0840
Time Ended: 1540
Maximum elevation Reached: 4630 metres ( 15,190 feet)

Camp Elevation: 3940 metres ( 12,926 feet)
Total Distance Hiked: Approx: 9 kilometres (5.6 miles)

Yes you read that correctly....we went up to 4630 metres......then walked back down to 3940 metres to sleep. I'm told it's all part of the acclimatization process. Let's get back to that.

Day#3 didn't start out so great. That was probably a sign that it wasn't going to be a good day. Lola woke us after having slept very little all night. I woke with with nausea and diarrhea. In short that lead to what was definitely our hardest day thus far.

The day started the same as yesterday. I'm starting to think I'm no longer going to be able to wake up with out Frankie bringing me warm water. It would also help if I could bring someone home to make me breakfast everyday. I assure you the millet porridge and eggs and sausage did not go down very well today. I was seriously forcing some food in but still only managed to eat a small bit before we headed up the mountain.

Morning reflections on the mountain.

Today the group was split. Lola and I were moving a bit slower than the boys so they went on ahead with Abraham and Lola and I stayed with Arshad. I have to say I was feeling all kinds of unwell today. There were moments where I just felt I couldn't walk anymore. I felt so tired and out of breath and my heart was definitely racing at times (all not good things on the mountain). I almost gave up with about 300 metres to go to the lunch spot (seriously the longest 300 metres EVER) but we made it. I had taken a Zofran in the morning to help with the nausea and let's just say it did do it's job so by lunch time I was able to eat.

Looking down on the trail of porters making their way up the hill.

Lunch by the way, we carry with us. The first day it was just like sandwiches and fruit and some cookies (that kind of thing) but on the mountain we get some freshly roasted chicken (no bullshit, it's still warm when they give it to us in the morning) and a hard boiled egg and this really yummy cake stuff (Lola has a wheat allergy so I usually get hers), fruit and nuts and cookies and juice. Normally I would say this is enough food for about 3 people but on the mountain......it just feeds me.

It was a really hard push to the lunch spot, but after some food we felt slightly refreshed, so instead of taking the lower road, we took the high road up towards Lava Rock. It was not an easy trek up there and I can guarantee when we got there, it was a high five moment.

 A look at Lava Rock.

We look pretty good and fresh in this picture but trust me, we were hurting a little. But there is just something about fresh mountain air that makes me smile.

It was mostly downhill from there. I say mostly because there was this great downhill section......and then we had to hike back up to get to camp. Apparently we were taking a long time because one of the porters, Josef, made his way back to us......and carried mine and Lola's packs the rest of the way. I can't lie, we tried to keep them but it just seemed to please him so much to help us (and he said it too) that we just handed them over. He very nicely stopped every little while to allow us to drink water. I can't say enough about how wonderful the porters are.

Look closely......there's snow. We're definitely getting higher.

Some of the odd looking trees you will find along the way. It makes me think of a pineapple plant, but no pineapple up here.

A few more of those trees/plants.

We're not that far from camp at this point. Trust me we were ready to get there.

Eventually we made it to camp where Frankie had also been waiting for us......with warm water and tea. Lola and I used our nursing critical thinking to figure out that the diarrhea was probably from the large amount of tea I've been drinking on the mountain (it stimulates the bowel) so from here on out it's warm water and honey for me (not all of us drink as much tea as the Brits do).

The clouds rolling in on the mountain. Luckily they didn't bring rain with them.

Dinner tonight was fresh potato soup (wow do they know how to make soup here), African donuts, and pasta with a fish stew. SO GOOD!!!!!! Who knew the food would be so good on the mountain. Amazing to think all the ingredients are carried up and dinner is made fresh every night.

 After dinner we had a nice sit down with Arshad. The first thing we learnt was that I should have stopped taking my anti-malaria medications 2 days ago. They were probably contributing to my  nausea and fatigue. We also got a little rundown on the team who is taking care of us. The team is made up of 18 men, a head guide (Arshad), an assistant guide (Abraham), a cook, a waiter (Frankie), 12 porters (3 for each of us), a rescue person (let's hope we don't need him) and a toilet porter (not sure how you draw that job but seriously..... I love this guy).

Most guides will have started out a porters. To become a guide you have to take a training course which includes, theory (you have to know how to recognize altitude sickness and respiratory distress among other things), a 30 day practicum on the mountain (many never get past this part) and a written exam.....in English. Pretty intense but I assure you, you would not want to be up here without a well trained guide.

Pretty sure Lola and I were in bed by 1930 tonight. We were exhausted......but it's a good exhausted. We did get a few looks at the towns below. At night the whole valley lights up with little towns. It's a fabulous view.

Survived Day 3 (barely).

4 more to go.

Julie