Tuesday, August 2nd to Thursday, August 4th, 2011
So I am slowly making my way home (as in Canada) but not without visiting a country I have always wanted to visit, New Zealand. The land of kiwis and volcanoes and All Black Rugby has long been on my list of countries to explore so before returning to the other side of the world....I've made a stop.
My plan on arrival here is to spend a few days in Auckland, hop on a 16 day tour that will take me to the rest of the country and then finish up with about 5 days in the Queenstown area to check it out and hopefully do some skiing. Yes, the weather is expected to be much colder.....and less predictable than in Darwin, but I think I'll manage.
I left Darwin at 0140 (yes that is 1:40 in the morning) after a long but really fun day at the Darwin Cup. Probably wasn't the best idea to spend that much time out in the sun and doing that much drinking before getting on planes for almost 12 hours but what can you do. My last few hours in Darwin were very memorable and will leave a lasting impression. I felt like total crap when I finally arrived in Auckland but at least my only plan was to get a new Sim card for my cell phone, eat some food and plan the next couple days so I wasn't too concerned.
Of course part way through my trip I got the terrible news that Great Gramma had passed away. I knew she had gone into the hospital the day before but really had expected her to return home like she did every other time. Mom assured me that she passed away peacefully in her sleep and that is the best you could hope for. She lived an amazing life and will be missed. I think we all know she will always be with us and would be happy to see us enjoying life as she did. Not all of us will reach the 100 year old milestone she did but we can all try.
Eventually I did make it to Auckland, got settled into my hotel, found all the other things I needed and went to bed. Well I actually discovered that it's almost impossible to find pseudoephedrine in New Zealand but that's another story.
Wednesday, August 3rd, 2011
Wednesday rolled around and eventually I got out of bed and headed out to see Auckland. The first thing you notice is how hilly it is. It seems like everywhere in Australia (except Hobart......and parts of Canberra) is totally flat and pretty easy to walk around. Auckland......not so much. A much better workout walking up and down the streets here. I was staying pretty central in the city however so it wasn't that far to get anywhere.
A look at the old Ferry Building down on the waterfront.
Also down on the waterfront.
At the entry way to Albert Park.
The fountain in Albert Park.
After walking up to Albert Park I made my way to the Auckland Art Gallery. A small little place which is free to visit and it won't take you very long to wander through but totally worth a look. It gave a nice little introduction to some of the Maori Art and culture I would be seeing throughout New Zealand. Naturally I felt a good place to visit next was the Auckland Museum. A little bit of a bus ride to get there but really worth it.
Out front of the museum, which also acts as a War Memorial. The area is considered to be consecrated ground.
The museum collects a $10 "donation" entry fee from anyone not from New Zealand. (I hate specified "donations" fees. If you want me to pay to visit, just charge me a entry fee), which of course helps with the up keep of the museum and the purchase of new pieces and exhibits. It is a pretty all inclusive museum. On each floor you get a glimpse of a different aspect of New Zealand history and life.
The First floor gives you a great overview of Pacific culture, including that of New Zealand's Maori People. I must say after a year in Australia, where the history of the Aboriginal people is often......well let's just say it is not a very nice history, it is refreshing to see a culture that is so admired and respected. If you don't know anything about the Maori People, I am sure by the time I leave New Zealand I will have shared as much information about them as I can.
Looking into a gallery of some of the items connected to the Polynesian Culture.
The Maori People have been in Aotearoa (that's the Maori name for New Zealand) since around 1300 AD. They would have arrived here after many epic waka (that's canoe) voyages from the Islands of Eastern Polynesia. These voyages have established the Maori people as some of the greatest navigating people of all time. Maori's were (and are) known to be great warriors. It makes sense now that so much of the Maori culture was been maintained and is respected in New Zealand. When European explorers began to arrive to claim the land for where ever they were from (let's face it.....Britain), the Maori's fought back. Eventually treaties were signed and agreements made and now the New Zealand national anthem is sang in Maori......and then English. But that is just a glimpse, I'll explore it more throughout my journey.
This is a vaka tapu built for the chief of the Taumako clan of Tikopia. It is famous in Tikopian tradition and has made long ocean voyages to Anuta and Vanuatu. Not sure you could get me in one of these in the ocean for more than a few minutes. This canoe has its own spirit guardians and seasonal rituals and appeals would be made to protect the fishermen on board.
An example of some of the weapons Maori warriors would have used. Traditional Maori combat was fought hand-to-hand mostly with short or long clubs such as these.
You will find this in Maori Court in the museum along with all the other Maori cultural items. This is a pataka. Traditionally it would have been used to store things like food and valuable items to keep them safe.
The second floor floor of the museum is all about the natural history of New Zealand which of course focuses on the volcanoes. There are a whole lot of volcanoes in the area. They have a fun little exhibit set up where you can sit in a "living room" and experience what it would be like to have a volcano erupt just outside your front door.
The third floor of the museum is all about the Military history of New Zealand and acts partially as a war memorial.
Ahhh yes.......the Vickers Supermarine Spitfire......probably the most famous of the Vickers built aircraft. This one was relocated to this third floor display (in a dismantled state I must add) in 1997. Once it was loaded up, the walls and roof were closed in around it and the conservation process was started. It looks to be in great shape now and is in a very environmentally controlled space so should age very well.
Outside the museum. Beautiful spot. Overlooks most of the city.
I wandered past this billboard. I just found it funny.
And that was about all I managed my first full day in Auckland. Back to my earlier pseudoephedrine comment, I have managed to develope one serious sinus infection so am resting up as much as possible before heading out on my tour.
Thursday, August 4th, 2011
Thursday morning I decided I better check out one of the very prominent features in the Auckland area........a volcano. There are more than 50 cones and craters in the Auckland area. If you're walking up, there's a good chance you are on a volcanic cone. I decided that I would hop on a ferry and make my way out to the most recent, largest and least modified volcano in the area....Rangitoto.
There are ferries that take you out to the island and then once there you have the choice to walk the island and to the summit or take a tractor ride. I opted to take the hike. Big thing to remember is what time the last ferry leaves the island at the end of the day. If you miss it........you get to spend the night.....but there is nothing there (especially this time of year) so it's not a great place to spend the night.
A little bit of the view from Rangitoto......well on the arrival level anyway. Rangitoto stands 250 metres (850 feet) tall and you have to know I would be climbing up to the top.
Part of the trail up. Although the island is mostly uninhabited, there are many paths and trails and roads on the island. The roads were mostly built by prison labour.
Part way up and coming out of the trees. That's the Auckland Harbour Bridge. It is one of the many places in New Zealand that you can bungy jump. Did you know that New Zealand is home to the world's first commercial bungy jump? It is in Queenstown. No, I don't plan on bungy jumping while here but I might watch other people do it.
Part way up the sun came out which was a good thing. It was summer when I left Australia (well technically it's winter there too but in Darwin it always feels like summer) but it is certainly winter here in New Zealand. Much colder than I am accustomed to.
At the summit of Rangitoto. During World War II, Rangitoto became home to many Military installations. This would be the summit Observation post.
The view of Auckland from the summit. Rangitoto was formed about 600 years ago, most likely through a series of violent eruptions lasting anywhere from 10 to 200 years (scientists are still discussing this point).
A zoomed in look at the Auckland sky tower. Wikipedia (as well as other sources) tell me it is the tallest free standing structure in the Southern Hemisphere. It happens to be 328 metres (1076 feet) tall.
A couple of the cute little birds I encountered during my climb. These little wax-eyes (or silver-eyes and I've also seen them referred to as white-eyes) were super friendly. They didn't seem to beg for food but they certainly were not afraid of anyone who was hanging around.
Another view from near the top. Such a beautiful spot. Think I'm starting to get an idea of what the next 3 weeks will look like.
A few more of the birds you can find on the island. It is a protected reserve so you cannot bring dogs or any other animals onto the island. In the past animals such as goats, deer and wallabies have called the island home but they have all disappeared or been eradicated. The Department of Conservation is still in the process of eradicating the island of mice, rats, cats, rabbits and hedgehogs. The island is still young so not quite able to support huge bird populations yet but it is getting there. Best part of Rangitoto.....and New Zealand in general....NO SNAKES.
A look at the Controlled Mine Base which you can no longer visit due to the presence of asbestos.
Walking along the shores of Rangitoto. A really good way to spend a day.
A look at some of the lava fields that cover a large portion of the island. Lava fields of course contain no soil so can therefore support no plant life. Slowly wind blown soil and the slow breaking down process will enable this area to maintain plant growth as well. Important to note that there are also no streams of any kind on Rangitoto so plantlife rely on rainfall for moisture.
This is a bache. In the 1920's and 30's about 140 of them were built on Rangitoto. A bache is a small holiday home although some people were living here on a permanent basis. The legality of the baches was questioned and after 1936 no more were built. Most have since been removed but you can still find about 30 scattered around the edge of the island. They are being preserved and most are still used by thier owners in the summer.
This was origianally part of a stone wall that lead to the mens' toilet. It was convict built in the 1920s' and 30's and some of the only remains of structures built on Rangitoto for community use. It is quickly deteriorating and is a little unsafe so has been fenced off while being assessed for repairs.
Eventually I had to grab the last ferry back to Auckland. It was a wonderful day and I now have an even better idea of what I have in store. Tomorrow I meet up with the group of people I'll be spending the next 16 days with. Looking forward to it. If the frist 2 days are any indication, I will not be disappointed with New Zealand.
Julie
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