A final day together

Saturday, November 29, 2008
Istanbul, Turkey

This yellow building just looked so random.

Well today was the last day the nine of us (well eleven really) would spend together as a group. The tour officially ends tomorrow after breakfast but we did have one more day to see some sites. Ed and Liezel decided to spend the day on their own and then join us for dinner but the rest of us headed off with Ergun to see some stuff. Ekrem left this morning so we have already said good-bye to one of us.

The ceiling of the Kaiser Wilhelm's Fountain. It was presented to Sultan Abdul Hamit II by the German emperor in 1901 during a state visit as a token of friendship.

Anyway, we can get emotional later. We headed out to see a few of the sites. We stopped by the Hippodrome which was the centre of Byzantium’s life for about 1200 years and of Ottoman life for another 400 or so years. Countless political dramas took place here (and since it has been established that I am a political junky it totally interested me).

The 4th century Rough-Stone Obelisk can also be seen in the hippodrome. Not much is known about it but I did learn that it was clad with sheets of gilded bronze by Constantine VII Porphyrogenitus. The plates we ripped off during the Fourth Crusade but you can see the bolts holes where they would have been attached.

The chariot races of the Byzantine times also took place here. Teams were either blue or green depending on which political party they belonged to.

I was interested to see the Spiral column. It was once part of a golden basin supported by three entwined serpents. Of course serpents (and they should be) are the symbol of all things evil but more interesting was the fact that until around 330 AD when Constantine the Great had it moved to his new capital, the column stood in front of the Temple of Apollo in Delphi Greece. Of course I had seen that exact temple a few short weeks ago so it just tied a few things together for me.
We also stopped by The Million Stone which is left from the Byzantine Triumph Arch. It was used to mark distance to all corners of the empire.

This is the Obelisk of Theodosius (and you can see the Rough-Stone Obelisk in the background). This is the oldest monument in Istanbul. It was carved in Egypt during the reign of Thutmose III and erected in the Amon-Re temple at Karnak (which I also saw). It was brought to Constantinople (Istanbul) by Theodosius in 390 AD.

The original obelisk was cut down for transit and then placed on this ceremonial marble base.

We then headed back to the Blue Mosque….well it was back for me as I had already been there once but it was certainly worth a second look. I was still in awe the second time around.

There is a chance I am repeating myself here but the mosque contains about 27,000 square stone tiles all blue in colour. Blue symbolizes the gods and the sky. We figure it would hold about 1,000 people, side by side when completely full, most likely on a Friday which is the most important day for prayer. The dome has a diameter of 23 meters (75 feet) and is 43 metres (141 feet) high. There are 4 very large columns that support the weight of the mosque. I didn't take many pictures inside the mosque this time around. I guess I figured I had taken enough last time I was here.

Me, Eva, Reshmi and Monica with the mosque.......

..........and Me, Paul, Eva, Reshmi, Monica and Winston with the mosque.

After that we headed to the Underground Cistern. It was known in Byzantium as the Basilica Cistern because it laid underneath the Stoa Basilica. I had kind of read a bit about this but bypassed it during my previous visit but what a neat place. It was actually kind of eerie. There was water dripping from the ceiling and fish swimming in the water and well, it was dark and dreary and some music playing in the background but neat. In the past this would have been a source of water for people in Istanbul although for a while it had been forgotten about and was actually used for dumping of waste including corpses.

It really did look this creepy.....not just a camera trick.

It has been restored 3 times. People would collect water and catch fish by dipping buckets down to collect it. The fish were a good way to check if the water was poisoned. Dead fish meant bad water.

This is one of 2 columns with medusa heads that support the one corner of the cistern. This one is obviously up-side down and the other one is tilted to one side. Not much is known about them but it is believed that they were brought here from an antique building from the late Roman period. Why the heads were placed the way they were is also unknown.

And then it was off to lunch. Ergun had a place picked out for us but someone decided they wanted pida instead (I am not going to point fingers……Paul) so we walked around in the rain a bit more until we found a different place. It was good though so Paul does not get in too much trouble for that.

After that it was time to shop. We headed back to the Grand Bazaar (once again that means back for me not for everyone). It was much busier this time around than last time I was there but this time I did buy a few things…no you can’t know what they are….they might be for you.. We kind of moved through as a group but kept losing Eva as she was buying stuff go everyone apparently but we all left together and that is what counted.

Paul, Winston and Ergun looking pimp......or something like that.

Sam.......looking like Sam.

From there we headed for tea, and coffee and hot chocolate and all that stuff. We headed to a place that was like Starbucks but wasn’t Starbucks for a bit. While enjoying a quiet conversation a small wager developed. I had to eat some chocolate covered coffee beans (which were gross.......I totally hate coffee and putting chocolate on it does not help) and Paul had to eat some of the sludge from his Turkish coffee (which I am sure was much grosser so I think I won). Anyway, Turkish coffee just so you know is kind of like espresso but what ends up at the bottom of the glass is kind of like tar. In the past it took hours to brew Turkish coffee so if you made some for a friend they would be very thankful. The saying (and I paraphrase) a cup of coffee is equal to 40 years of friendship, evolved from it. You won’t hear many people say it much anymore…unless they are trying to sell you a carpet.

Anyway, a bunch of us then took a nap (because that is what we do....even after a handfull of coffee beans) and then we headed out to dinner. We took the tram and then a Funicular up to Takism Square. We were on a very busy street that kind of reminds me of Whyte Ave in Edmonton or 17th Ave in Calgary (I guess Toronto’s Yonge Street would fit in there too). Not much vehicle traffic but we did have to dodge the occasional tram.

Looking down the busy street.

Lots of stores and restaurants and bars and people. It was a fun little atmosphere. We had a great time…..our last meal together. We then stopped to buy some Turkish delight. Sorry no one is getting any. I have too much time on this trip left and it has to travel too far so you will have to go to Turkey on your own to find some…..or buy it where ever you are, but it just isn’t the same.

I'm not kidding.....this is totally a shoe store.

Once back at the hotel we made our way down to the English pub on the corner of the street. Our hotel does not have an liquor license so they don’t have a bar but we had noticed the English Pub when we first arrived and thought that would be a great place to spend a few more hours together. Now the drinks were not quite as strong as the ones in Selcuk, but they were good just the same.

Back at the hotel it was getting to be time to say goodbye to the first group. Eva and Winston both had very early flights, so Paul and I stayed up until their ride came to get them…..at 0300. We may have shared some wine while we waited and even though the hotel would have rather we not, it is amazing how a smile can make 4 wine glasses appear.

Anyway, most of the group will head out tomorrow (or more correctly today) except a few of us who have decided to stay an extra night. Most will be staying in our hotel here in Istanbul but I will be heading back out to the Polat Renaissance. I need a few more stars (and guaranteed hot water) before I head to the Czech Republic. It has been a great 15 days. I am very glad I was able to share Turkey with a great group of people. I will certainly miss them..…but now I have people in Montreal, London, Vancouver, Melbourne and Seattle/California to visit. I hope everyone has a spare couch.

Julie

Another great day in Turkey

Thursday, November 20, 2008
Travel from Konya to Antalya, Turkey

My alarm clock. Yes, the call to prayer comes very early.

Well today would be another travel day with a few stops along the way and we had one stop in Konya before we headed to Antalya. This was at the Mevlana Museum which is an old lodging of the whirling dervishes. There is also a small mosque and the Mevlana Tomb which contains the tombs of many dervishes including Mevlana’s sarcophagus. Mevlana was a poet and author of religious writing. He was a great student of Islamic theology. After his death Mevlana’s son created the brotherhood of Mevlevi or whirling dervishes which exerted considerable conservative influence on the country’s political, social and economic life. Mevlana was a mystic of islam but not a muslim of the Orthodox type. He saw all religions as more or less the truth. Several Ottoman Sultans were mystics and although the sect was banned for a short time by Ataturk in the 1920's, the tradition remained strong and continues today. This is a very holy place for Muslims who can often be seen praying for Mevlana’s help.

In the courtyard of the Mevlana Museum.

It really was a neat old place to visit. They normally make you remove your shoes before entering mosques but here they just made us cover them with little disposible booties. Reminded me of heading into the OR something. The museum is full of old items but the neatest were the old Korans, including the world’s smallest Koran and an amulet. The amulet would contain a certain or a few certain passages from the Koran and would be worn as protection from hexes or spells. Sorry, no pictures allowed.

We then continued on our journey to Antalya. We stopped along the way for a pit stop and just as we were leaving we were approached by a group of kids. They were heading to a Mai Tai competition and saw us and wanted to take a picture with us. Once again it appears we are a tourist attraction. So we took a couple pictures and a couple of the boys demonstrated some moves for us.

The drive to Antalya was quite enjoyable. Kind of like driving through Kananaskis in Alberta. Lots of trees and green and if look up a little bit of snow on some of the mountains. It was actually really nice. So glad someone else was doing the driving.

Some of the randomness I saw when I wasn't sleeping.

Eventually we did arrive at the highlight of the day and certainly one of the highlights of Turkey thus far........... Aspendos Theatre.

An outside look at Aspendos Theatre. Trust me it looks very different on the inside.

It is considered to be the best preserved Roman theatre in the ancient world. It was constructed between 80-161 AD during the reign of Marcus Aurelius and then restored in the 13th century. It certainly is breathtaking and I found myself going WOW as I entered through the archway. You can imagine the atmosphere back in the day when the stands were full and there was a play on the stage. It continues to be fun for me to visit these places knowing that when they would have been at the height of thier use......I would have been kept out because I am a woman.

An inside look at Aspendos theatre.

Me hanging out on stage.

The acoustics of the place are just amazing and that was demonstrated by a few people including Ergun, Liezel and a few of us singing happy birthday to Sam.

Some of our theatre entertainment. This guy is a complete stranger.

Of course we had to climb to the top row of the seats to get a full view of the place. I made it to the top without an issue but once I was up there and started to look down I started getting queasy and dizzy and had to quickly make my way back down to a lower level. I think the level of light at that time of day made it difficult for me to focus on anything and then the vertigo set in. Not a good feeling at all.

Ed, Winston, Ergun, Reshmi, Paul (waving at me), Monica and Sam enjoying what Ergun has to say.....while I enjoyed the theatre from much closer to the ground. Liezel and Eva are not in this picture because they are off taking many, many pictures of thier own.

I missed a little bit of Ergun’s commentary on the theatre itself but I felt better being closer to the ground and that is all that counted.

Sam, Ergun, Winston, Me and Eva. This is one of the many, many pictures that Liezel took.

The group of us having some fun at Aspendos.

So after our visit to the theatre…....which was truly fabulous, we headed to the hotel….which happens to be located in the Inner Castle in Antalya (the ancient City of Antalya). So basically it is a fenced in area of the city with lots of old, old buildings many of which have been turned into hotels and restaurants and that kind of thing and pretty much everyone you meet is either a tourist or someone who wants to sell something to a tourist. We met a guy who said he was one of Ergun’s best friends and that is why we should shop in his store. Ergun doesn’t know him but the guys in the area apparently like to know the names of the tour guides so they can try to lure in the tourists. It really did feel like the giant fence was keeping us in but we negotiated our way around for a bit before it was time for dinner.

Hanging out on the outer fence of the inner castle. We kind of felt like we were going to have to swim our way out. Oh well, at least we knew there would not be a lot of vehicle traffic in the area since they don't let many in.

Hadrian's Gate which was built in 130 AD to honour the visit of Emperor Hadrianus. It is the only remaining entrance to the ancient city of Antalya. It was covered with sand for many years so is very well preserved.

It was Sam’s birthday today so we actually had a reason to celebrate….not that being in Turkey was not reason enough. Ergun and Ekrem managed to get a cake and it was a complete surprise to Sam. It was a lot of fun. We are only a few days into this trip but I have a feeling the group is going to get close. It is really nice to travel with a small group in a small van instead of the giant bus. Gives us a lot more time to get to know each other.

The group of us waiting for Sam to cut his birthday cake. Sitting between Ed and I is Ekrem who has been taking care of all the driving duties for our trip.

Julie

Where are we now?

Wednesday, November 19, 2008
Traveling from Cappadocia Region to Konya Turkey

Funny because I just love touching electrical wires.

So this morning came much earlier than I would have liked but there would be plenty of time on the road for sleeping so no worries. Our first stop on our road trip to Konya was at the Underground City at Deinkuyu. There are many underground cities in the area (over 200) and many of them are connected.

One of the many staircases we wondered down. I assure you it would not matter who was chasing me there is no way I am living underground.

This underground city covers an area of around 4.5 kilometres, is about 55 metres down and is considered 7 stories however they are not the same as what we would consider 7 stories. They were used by people during raids for protection. People did not permanently live here but would often spend a couple months underground if need be. This city would have held around 10,000 people.

The first room on the first floor you get to is the stable. Of course this was for the animals. Its location made it easy to get them in and out but was also used as an early warning system. Animals could hear danger approaching long before people could and their heighten reactions would alert the city to danger.

Part of an old classroon.

Next we arrived at the kitchen area. All cooking for the city would be done in one place. The chimneys in the kitchen were covered by pumice stone to absorb the smoke so it could not be seen from the outside.

The city itself is very clever and very well thought out. They used snow for refrigeration and they had an internal water system that was not connected to the outside so that it could not be tampered with by enemies. They also had communication tunnels so that people could talk to each other in different areas of the city. There were schools, chapels, living space, graves and at one point even a winery. The cities were used by many different people over time so the use for individual rooms changed depending on the population’s need. The tunnels were not very large and we spent a lot of time hunched over getting through, which was interesting considering they have been widen and cleared out. The original tunnels would have required adults travelling through them to crawl.

Walking back up some of those stairs.

Once we were finished exploring the city we hopped back in the van and drove for about an hour until we arrived at Ihlara Valley.

This valley contains some old cave dwellings and churches and it was the churches that we stopped to see. We spend about 1.5 hours hiking through it.

The area is not a national park like some of the other valleys in the region, but is still privately owned and the land worked by families. There is a small cost to enter (5 YTL) but a very small price to pay for a nice little hike. It was pouring rain when we first arrived and I think we were all a little hesitant to continue with the hike but the rain quickly cleared and it turned into a great day.

One of the churches that we visited.

Some of the paintings that can still be seen on those church walls.

We then continued our travels with a couple stops along the way. We had to stop and take pictures of Mount Hassan. Kind of made me home sick as it reminded me of my view from the condo in Lincoln Park (but it is ok because I would not be on this trip if I had not sold the condo).

We also stopped to take some pictures of the Selime Monastery. It is made up of old rock caves at the town of Yaprakhisar.

We then drove for a bit before stopping at Sultanhani Caravanserai for a pit stop. This was actually a rest stop on the silk road. Travelers in caravans or on their own could stop here and stay for up to 3 days for free. Here the travelers would find doctors and food and services for their camels and other animals.

On arrival in Konya, we stopped by to visit The Alaaddin Camii mosque. This is the oldest mosque in the area. We arrived during prayer but we were still able to visit. Konya is a much more conservative area and this is the first time I was required to cover my head to enter a mosque but they keep extra scarves at the door so it was no big deal. It was a nice little stop.

A shot of the tower at Alaadin Camii Mosque.

We eventually made it to the hotel and after a quick rest we were off to dinner. We headed to this old mansion and sat at traditional tables while eating some traditional food. We have certainly been experiencing the traditional fare while here so far. Not sure if I can say there is anything that I really dislike but I am not sure the last time I ate this much meat.

Yes we had to sit cross legged at these tables.

We have another travel day ahead of us tomorrow but there will be a highlight when we visit the first of many ancient theatres. It should be a great day.

Julie

Off to Ankara

Saturday, November 15 and Sunday November 16, 2008
Travel from Istanbul to Ankara, Turkey

Well Saturday I got up..…none too early I might add and made my way to Otogar (not The Otogar....just Otogar), which is the main bus station in Istanbul. I had planned to take public transit there but the hotel suggested I take a cab instead. I am very glad I took the hotel’s suggestion as it was close to a 45 minute drive and I would have had to change buses about 3 times.

Istanbul’s bus station is very interesting. I was told that there were around 150 different bus companies, all with separate desks at the bus station. What I did not realize was that the bus station was in fact a giant strip mall and each company was it’s own store.

A look at one section of Otogar. Each sign represents a different bus company.

They say the only way to compare prices and times is to go from company to company and find the price and check out their buses. Now I am far to lazy for that so last night I got online, found 3 different companies that had English sites, compared their prices and decided I would use one of them. The first place I checked was Ulusoy. They had a bus leaving about 45 minutes after I got there. I knew the other companies I had checked would be leaving on about the same schedule and the prices were only a few lira apart so I picked that one. Of course as soon as I got out of the cab people were approaching me trying to sell their bus company to me, but I like have said before I am getting good at ignoring and the fact that I speak no turkish actually really helps as well.

I had to take a mini-bus to get to the actual bus.. The mini-bus took us through the underbelly of Otogar which is where I thought the bus was…but it wasn’t. We left Otogar and then stopped and I thought the bus was there….but it wasn’t. We then drove for about 20 minutes and then stopped at another bus station…and that is where the bus was.

Now I was told using the bus from Istanbul to Ankara is the quickest and best way to go. The trip was slated for 5.5 hours…but that of course does not count the hour it takes to get out of Istanbul but the bus is much more like a plane than a bus so it was ok. I was very glad when a nice girl who spoke English sat next to me because I learned on the bus that there were actually 3 stops in Ankara and I had no idea which one would be mine. She knew where I needed to be so I wasn't too worried I would be dropped off in the middle of nowhere. The bus has an attendant on it who checks tickets and puts coats away and hands out snacks and drinks and all that kind of stuff. They showed a couple movies and they even stopped for about 30 minutes so everyone could get off the bus, use the bathroom and get some food. It was actually the best bus ride I had ever taken.....and yes I slept a lot.

So random section of Istanbul I saw on my way out of the city.

We arrived in Ankara around 1830 (6:30pm) and I quickly realized that I was not where I thought I was (I know, whata surprise), so I hopped in a cab and gave then the name of a hotel that I thought would be easiest for the driver to know..…the Radisson. He double checked it a few times with me and then we were off. I have learned that traffic in Turkey is similar to that in Egypt so a drive is always an adventure. We did eventually make it to the hotel. The hotel was close to the hotel I would be meeting the tour group at the next day so it all worked out well.

An Ankara intersection. Don't worry, that guy didn't get hit by a car.

Sunday morning arrived and I was off to find the hotel for the start of my tour. The map told me it should have been a quick 10 minute walk...…so of course it took me almost an hour. Even with attempts to ask non- English speaking Turks directions (and they were always very helpful)…. I went the wrong way but I did eventually get there. I actually arrived close to the same time as another member of the tour group, Sam a murse (male nurse) from Montreal. Ironic because he actually stayed at the Radisson the night before too but he arrived much later than I did.

This is the Ataturk Equestrian Statue. I know I have mentioned Ataturk a few times and you might be curious who his is but I assure you I will get to that.

So the rest of the day consisted of me taking a nap, finding some cash and taking a nap before meeting with the group and the group leader around 1900 (7pm). The group for the next 15 days will be nine people (including myself) plus the tour leader and the driver. We had a quick meeting, started to meet each other, took care of some paperwork and then it was off to dinner…as a group. When we got back, we shared a bottle of wine and although it took a few moments to get it open it was great to sit around and talk. I can already tell that this trip will be great. The group consists of 5 Canadians, 3 Australians and an American. We are all close in age and seem outgoing so I feel like we shall be getting along. Our tour guide is really enthusiastic and happy that we are not a bunch of middle age women so I am sure he will have lots of things to tell us.

One of the mosques in Ankara.

So tonight I will try not to freeze in my room (the hotel situations are going to be a little touch and go I think for the next 2 weeks) and then it will be off to see more of Turkey in the morning.

Julie

I'll figure that out tomorrow

Friday, November 14, 2008
Istanbul, Turkey

Looking out at Marmara Denizi (Marmara Sea). That is the Asian side of Istanbul you can see.

Well today I woke up with some plans to visit a few things in the city but I first came to the realization that I had not figured out how to get to Ankara tomorrow and still had no place to stay once I got there. I am a little tired of figuring all that stuff out and am really looking forward to being on a tour for a couple weeks where that stuff is done for me. I guess I will figure it out tomorrow.

What would a picture of water be without a picture of some boats. Once again this is the Marmara Sea and I am standing on the European side of Istanbul looking at the Asian side. Those are government buildings in the background but I am not sure what.

Anyway, I headed for the good old 81 bus but instead of getting off at the city centre the plan was to get off closer to the Blue Mosque so all I had to do was walk up the hill. Of course I got off one stop too late and had to walk a little ways back but no worries. Once again I passed by many men fishing along the shore. At this section though there is even a man who moves from fisherman to fisherman selling coffee and snacks and that kind of thing.

I wandered my way up the hill and decided to visit Aya Sofya first since it is considered by many to be Istanbul’s most famous monument.

One of the mosaics you will find on the second floor of Aya Sofya. Known as the Empress Zoe mosaic is it dated from the 11th century.

This church was completed in 537 AD by Emperor Justinian and was considered the greatest church of the Roman Empire. That was until the conquest by Mehmet the Conqueror in 1453 when he had in converted to a Mosque.

The ceiling above the marble door (you can just see the top of it). The marble door was use by the particpants in synods (church council).

It remained an active Mosque until around 1935 when Ataturk turned it into a museum. There has been a lot of restoration work done, much of which continues to this day. I have been told that we may never see it without the scaffolding that decorates the centre of the Mosque.

Some of the dome. Still a lot of work to be done.

One of the highlights is the Weeping Column which is said to be that of St. Gregory the Miracle Worker. The story goes that you put your thumb in the small hole and rotate your palm in a full circle around it and if your thumb comes out moist your wish will come true.

Did I test it out? No. I have decided not to leave my wishes to some hole in a wall.

The stain glass windows above the Mihrab. The Mihrab indicates the direction of Mecca.

My next planned stopped was the Blue Mosque, however my timing was poor and it was noon prayer. Of course it is also Friday which is a very holy day to Muslims so the Mosque was very full. So instead I sat down in the park and waited for noon prayer to end. While waiting I met many a Turkish man, each one wanting to sell me carpets or tours or jewellery or a shoe shine. I politely turned them all down and they quietly went away (although I apparently broke the heart of the shoe shine guy….I almost felt bad). Eventually 1300 (1pm) rolled around and as the hundreds of men and women who were inside praying made their way out, I slowly made my way to the visitors entrance. I was approached once more by a Turkish man who had all kinds of things to tell me about Istanbul and would have liked to of shared more info with me over a cup of tea (here they say a cup of tea shared is equal to 40 years friendship). He was simply going to wait for me outside the Mosque after I took a look. Apparently I took too long and he got tired of waiting as he was not there when I got out (good thing too….I was not letting him buy me tea).

Me in front of the Blue Mosque.

Anyway, The Blue Mosque (also known as Sultanahmet) was built by Sultan Ahmet I to rival and even surpass Aya Sofya in grandeur and beauty. It was constructed between 1606 and 1616 and has the largest courtyard of all the Ottoman Mosques. So once I had removed my shoes and placed them in the plastic bag provided, I entered the mosque. One word…..WOW. This place is huge and spectacular and all those things. Not at all what I expected and certainly not a disappointment.

Inside the Blue Mosque

Looking down on the floor from the second level. A very large area. I am told capacity is about 1000 people during prayer.

Another shot of the ceiling.

Once I gathered myself and left the mosque I headed to a couple museums (I know so unlike me). I visited the Museum of the Ancient Orient followed by the Archaeological Museum. Both places are just full of artefacts from the area and all over. Statues and monuments and tombs and everything you could imagine from the Ottoman Empire, the Roman Empire, Troy and many other places. So neat and time well spent. I was going to visit one other place today but the museum took up all my time.

A few of the statues you will find in the Museum of the Ancient Orient

These glazed bricks, known as Lions in Relief are from the "procession street" in Babylon. It is dated 604 - 562 B.C.

A terra-cotta storage jar from the Hittite Empire Period (around the 13th century BC). It has a capacity of about 2000 litres (around 450 gallons) and would have held supplies for the temple such as grain or legumes. The hieroglyphic inscription describes the contents.

The Sidamara Sarcophagus. Just one of the amazing sarcophagus you will find in the museum. Amazing detail. Each one tells an elaborate story.

This marble statue is the God Apollo playing the Cithara. It is a Roman statue dated the 2nd Century AD.

So it was then back to the hotel via the 81 bus. Of course at the time of day I was travelling the bus was PACKED and I apparently do not have good balance on moving buses so fell into some people a few times but that was no big deal. People here are so nice so no one got bothered.

This is the entrance to Topkapi Palace. I didn't actually get to visit this day but maybe when I am back in a few weeks.

So after a wonderful day experiencing Istanbul at its finest, I am enjoying a relaxing night in my very nice hotel. I am also doing a little research so I will be prepared for my travel day tomorrow.

The sun setting over The Blue Mosque and Aya Sofya.

Julie