I had to Buy an Umbrella

Friday, October 17, 2008
Rome, Italy

Rome's Spanish Steps. They were a little empty today due to the rain. Normally they would be covered by people.

Well I woke up to rain in Rome today. I thought it was slowing down when I left the hotel but it turned out it was not so I bought an umbrella from the nice guys who sell them as you walk down the street. It did the trick. I had 3 things planned today. 1. Visit the Chiesa di Santa Maria Della Concezzione and the Capuchin Cemetery, 2. Visit the Chiesa di San Luigi de Francesi and 3. Send a package of things home to mom and dad.

Ok so this dress was not in the package I sent home to mom and dad but I walked past it several times and it is just so cute....one day, one day.

In case you are not sure, Chiesa is Italian for church. The first church I visited happened to be right down the street. It was recommended to me by Heather’s cousin. He was not sure of the name of the church but knew the name of the crypt and that was all I really needed as the church itself is not that exciting but the crypt is not to be missed. The Capuchin cemetery happens to be decorated with the bones of 4,000 monks. The decorating took place from 1528-1870. Before the bones could be used, the monk would be buried in dirt, the flesh would be given about 18 days to rot off and then the bones would be dug up and used in the decorations. The monks felt it was ok to use the bones because they make natural shapes and after all death was not meant to be scary, but the beginning of something great. Please note that all the monks died of natural causes and volunteered to have their bones added to the church.

Of course I could not take pictures so you have to use your imagination. Some people that were there found it a little disturbing. The only thing that I found disturbing was that I could identify most of the bones, and although I already knew that the bones all belonged men, I could confirm it by looking at the pelvic bones.

Another random street in Rome. I just liked it. Don't ask me why.

The other church I wanted to visit was closed until 1600 (4pm) so I had to find something else to fill my time so I headed to the streets. Once I got my package sent, I happened to walk by a store that made custom journals and address books and that kind of thing and since my current notebook is almost full I thought I would grab myself a journal. The guy in the store then decided to read my palm. Now I have to admit he was bang on about a couple things. And then he decided he needed to ask me out for coffee….and that is when I knew I had stayed too long.

Again random in Rome. What can I say, everything is random when you don't really know where you are.

I spent most of the day wandering around, checking out the sights and a few churches. I decided to find the Chiesa di Luigi and then work my way around there. Once again I found the church with no problem….my navigating skills seem to be improving…slightly.

Piazza Navona. Also not as full as it would be on a nice day but you can see the sun came out and eventually the rain went away.

One thing that has been confirmed is that no matter how ordinary the outside of a church looks in Rome, you can be almost completely assured that the inside will not be. The Chiesa di Luigi was no exception although it was not as amazing as I figured. This church is on the list of churches to check out due to some of its specific art work. It had some very beautiful Caravaggio’s inside so people and tour groups usually have it on its list of places to see. While they were quite stunning and totally worth the trip, I am glad that I did not see this church instead of any others.

Inside the Chiesa di Luigi.

Once of the Caravaggio's inside the church.

I found this ceiling inside the Basilica di S. Agostino. Don't ask me where I found it, I was just wandering.

From there it was more wandering around taking in the spirit of Rome and now I am sitting on a sidewalk café enjoying a great evening. The pasta and pizza have been great, the sights stunning and other than a little bit of rain this morning, the weather great but it is time to move on. I only have so much time and lots of Italy to see. Tomorrow I will test the trains and travel to Naples.

Anyone? The colours (red and black) tell me they are protesting something but not sure what.

I love the mini-buses in Rome. So cute.

Julie

Eventually all roads lead to somewhere

Thursday, October 16, 2008
Rome, Italy

Not sure what Rome street this is but I am sure I walked down it many, many times.

Well today was a real mix of business and pleasure. While I am attempting to be perfectly spontaneous while on this trip that part of me that needs to plan and be prepared is still much louder. So my first stop this morning was at Station Termi, which is the main train station here in Rome. I will be heading out of the city on Saturday and as I figure that will be a busy travel day I needed to be slightly prepared. I have myself a rail pass for Italy and Greece (when ever it is I make it there) but as European train travel is new to me (as is European travel in general) I thought I would stop by and make sure I knew what was going on. I did have to wait in line for a short while to get my pass validated.....and to find out that I don’t actually need to make a reservation to ride the train. Of course that is only on certain trains and I had to go somewhere else to figure out which ones…....and then they wanted to send me back to the ticket window to find out. I have found people in Rome pretty helpful and very nice...…until I went to the train station…..and then I found them annoyed by questions. Anyway, I think I have figured out which trains I can ride without a reservation or paying any extra money so I will hop on board sometime on Saturday and hopefully not get fined.

I then headed out to find the Pantheon. It is suppose to be one of the most recognizable buildings in the city….but of course I could not find it. I had highlighted out my route to the Pantheon…of course that was from my hotel and not the train station and thought I could make the adjustments…..but could not. I just cannot figure out which direction I am walking and even when you ask I can only get so far before I am completely disorientated (I am going to be in real trouble when I get to Venice I think).

Not the Pantheon but another random dome I found while walking.

Eventually I did find it and it was worth it. The Pantheon is actually now a church (it was originally built by the pagan Octavos so not always a church). It is now the acting Basilica di Santa Maria and Martyrs. Like most it has a very nice high dome ceiling but like not many others, that dome is open to the air.

That means that it rains in the church when it rains outside. There are 22 holes on the concave floor that drain any water away.

A couple of those 22 holes.

It also happens to be the oldest Christian Basilica. It is interesting to know that due to the design of the building the walls’ thickness actually gets less the higher the building gets.

There were a few people visiting the Pantheon while I was there but still managed to get a few pictures.

The front of the Pantheon.

The Basilica is also the home to the statue the Madonna of the Stone, which may mean nothing to most people (it certainly meant nothing to me) until you find out that this statue stands above the tomb of the artist Raphael. They needed to be sure though (because gossip said he wasn’t there), so the tomb actually was dug up and the contents confirmed.

All my wrong turns and walking in circles actually worked out good because I happened to be at the Pantheon the same time as one of the tour groups, which is not at all strange except that this tour group happened to include the Tse Family from Calgary. Some of you will have no idea who I am talking about but they have long been involved in Track and Field in Calgary and happened to belong to the same club as me…CALTAF. I have not seen Kim or Tim for a few years…...so it makes sense that I would run into them in Rome. Kim has been disconnected from Facebook for a few weeks…..which would explain why I did not know they were in the area as well. They had to leave quickly as their group was leaving, which reminded me again why I am doing this trip mostly on my own. I lingered a bit longer before trying to make my way back to Via Venento and my hotel.

My route took me past the infamous Fontana di Trevi. This of course is an amazing fountain and any movie you have seen set in Rome will have at least one shot of it. The story goes if you throw a coin in the fountain over your shoulder, you will return to Rome. I did not throw a coin in. If I want to return to Rome I will.

A few shots of the Fontana di Trevi

I also took the opportunity to stop in a few random churches along the way. So amazing because from the outside they all look old and bland but when you walk inside it is completely different. Amazing too because while they all have some sort of story behind their existence, they are still just churches….not basilicas not cathedrals. So well maintained and so amazing to look at.

The ceiling of one of those random churches.

My trip back to the hotel was actually really quick. I was able to follow my highlighted route on my map without issue. Maybe I am getting the hang of this city after all.

Some random old stuff just down the street from my hotel.

Julie

How do you spell Colosseum?

Wednesday, October 15, 2008
Rome, Italy

I shouldn't have to tell you what this is.

Well today I hit a couple more places I have always wanted to visit due to the their connection to the ancient world. My first stop….Rome’s finest….the Colosseum. I had caught a glimpse in the dark the night I arrived here…and was in awe, but standing next to is was twice as awe inspiring. On my way in I ran into a nice couple from Canada. They (as others have been) were shocked that I am taking this trip by myself. It is weird because I don’t see it was that big of a deal that I am on my own. To me it is just a bigger deal that I actually made a decision and did it. Maybe it is a big deal.

Me with the site that needs no introduction.

Anyway, back to The Colosseum. Of course it was the site of the Gladiator Games. These games would often be Gladiator versus Gladiator or Gladiator versus big Game (excavations have found bones from animals including lions, panthers, hippopotamuses and lots more). The life of a Gladiator was often not different than that of a soldier. They were recruited when they were 17 or 18 and would live and train to take part in these great games Their lifespan was about 30 years (which wasn’t much less than other Romans at the time but they often met with a very violent end). The goal of Gladiator versus Gladiator matches was not always the death of one Gladiator as this was a great expense to the Emperor. But yes, many a gladiator fell during these great battles. To confirm they were dead, gladiators would be touched with a hot iron (this would discourage faking it....yes I laughed as I wrote that). Gladiators would normally fight about twice a year. The rest of the time I think they spent training, but not sure.

Gladiators of course could also be slaves or prisoners who were sentenced to death. You could tell the rank of a gladiator by their weapon. Prisoners were often sent into the Colosseum unarmed. A slave could win their freedom by winning their match. A winning Gladiator would be adorned with a crown of palm as well as money or precious items.

The stage has be reproduced but all the tunnels below are original. The entire thing would have originally been covered and there were systems that would have raised and lowered people, animals and other things. Below you would have also found areas where animals and people were caged.

Anyway, looking around the Colosseum you do have to use your imagination. Like many other ancient buildings it has felt the effects of progression. Many materials were removed from the Colosseum to be used in the construction of other buildings around Rome, including St. Peter’s Basilica. The seating in the Colesseum (as you would suspect) was strictly separated by social standing. The farther away from the stage, the lower your social standing. There is not much left of the upper level seating or even the stairways…...the lower levels are rebuilt representations of what existed but the large scale of the building is still felt. It is thought that The Colosseum held 40,000 to 50,000 people, although that cannot be confirmed.

A closer look at some of those tunnels.

Of course all this info came from another audio tour that did not help negotiate me around the place (at least it is a giant oval so you cannot get lost…even I couldn’t get lost). They find it really easy to attach guard rails and emergency exit signs and stuff like that throughout…but they cannot post any type of information sign…because it is a archaeological monument. It’s a scam I now but hey, what are you going to do.

The Arch of Constantine which is right outside the Colosseum.

My ticket to the Colosseum also gave me entrance to another great site right next door. This is of course the Roman Forum and the Palatino. The Forum is a shadow of its ancient self but amazing none the less. Of course the Roman Forum was the centre of western civilization for a long time (some people would argue that it still is…..of course they aren’t from New York.). I joined a free tour of the Forum part way through (they give free tours at the forum….and then sell tours to other parts of the city). Of course much interesting information is obtained when listening in on a tour. Like I learned how cheap ancient Romans were. They loved appearing like they were completely awesome but liked to take short cuts. Like when building their temples and buildings and stuff like that they would use marble down low where people could see….but would use stucco painted to look like marble higher up where people could not inspect so closely. Here are a few pictures from the area. So neat to see but it is really too bad there is so little left.

There are a few archways remaining in the Forum but in fact there use to be many more. Arches were built to celebrate victories by emperors or other important people. There use to be dozens of archways, but most have since been destroyed.

One of the remaining archways.

The Palatino was an ancient Posh neighbourhood in Rome. Most of the ruins that you see actually are not from the original Palatino, but from neighbourhoods that existed afterwards. The old city had new churches and houses built over them. There still were some remaining signs though of the original area including the Stadio which was probably used by the elite to host private games and such.

Some of the ruins. Sorry I cannot remember what these were but they could be a church or a house or a market or anything else. I just think they look neat.

This is the stadium. This area was probably used by the wealthy to stage private games and that kind of thing. Not everyone would have had access to it though.

I could throw out a bunch of names and dates (that may or may not be correct) but like Egyptian history and every thing else there is too much to write and tell. The Casa di Augusto was really interesting though. They are in the process of restoring and escavating it. It is believed to be the private home of Augustus (who is someone important I am sure because everyone is someone important and although someone had told me I seriously cannot remember). There were rooms that they would only let five people in at a time due to safetly issues (they are still securing the area).

Some of the very well preserved walls of Casa di Augusto. Very neat. Very nice.

In fact there was a lot of excavating going on throughout the Palatino and Forum. I am sure they are always finding new things and expanding their knowledge of everything.

Yeah this guy totally was for real. It was warm that day, so he walked around the Roman Forum in this.

From there I made one more stop. This was at the Termi di Caracalla. These are actually some of the coolest ruins I have seen in the city. Basically this is an ancient leisure centre. They had hot rooms (caldaria) luke warm pools (trepidation), swimming pools, libraries, gardens and shops. It is thought that 6000 - 8000 people used this centre every day. The area also contained about 9.5 kilometres of underground tunnels where slaves tirelessly kept the plumping system of the centre running. It was truly and amazing sight to see. The vast size of it blew me away. Here are a few shots of different areas of the site. It really was huge.

Well, I think we all have to admitt that I saw a lot today. Some pizza and gelotto on the way home was pretty much all I needed before a good nights’ sleep. There is so much to see in this city and I know I will only reach the tip of the ice berg, but it will have to be enough as I can only stay in the city so long.

Julie

And I didn't get struck by lightning

Tuesday, October 14, 2008
Rome, Italy

Me in front of St. Peter's Cathedral

I managed to find my breakfast spot again (really it is not hard so that should not be a surprise). I consulted my map and planned a nice quick and direct route to the Vatican….I however crossed the road one block too soon and had a few issues working my way back….but no worries because I got there and I never actually got hit by a car or a scooter, but almost by this guy on a bike but I think he would have also been hurt so whatever.

One of the statues around the top of Piazza di San Pietro (St. Peter's Square).

I was told there would be a queue to get in but had no idea it would be over a kilometre long. I really wanted to see St. Peter’s Basilica though so I stood in line for close to an hour to get through security. It is always faster if you are with a group but I wanted to move at my own pace so decided against joining a tour of any kind.

From the "it could be worse" file. These guys have to wear this all day long. They are the Pope's guards. For some reason I don't find them that intimidating.

To say that St. Peter’s is breathtaking is an understatement. Now you know me. I am not catholic (I could be considered the anti-catholic) I am not religious (spiritual yes, but not certainly not religious) but this place is truly amazing. I actually stood for a little while at the place where the Basilica of Immaculate Conception (in DC) ends and looked around and saw just how much more there is at St. Peter’s. Just awesome....really really awesome.

Me inside St. Peter's.

The first thing I had to do though was head up to the cupola or the dome. We are talking 551 steps up. I thought the steps at St. Paul’s (in London) were bad but they were nothing compared to this. At one point I had to walk sideways because that is the way the wall was leaning. But it was worth it…the view of Rome from the top can’t be compared to anywhere else. Going down for the most part was much easier but old stone steps are not always the easiest to navigate.

A few of those stairs. They were fun. I enjoyed it....and so did my ass.

From the top of St. Peter's.

Looking down at St. Peter's Square.

I then took a trip through the Tombs of the Popes, mainly because I was there and figured I should. Really nothing too special, a bunch of people praying, some old tombs…certainly not a highlight (for me anyways). I am sure if I was catholic it would mean more but alas I am not so I did not linger for long.

I then left the Basilica and headed to the place I really wanted to be. That place is of course the Vatican Museums. They are a whole collection of museums that are all connected. I grabbed myself an audio tour as I thought that would help with the orientation of the place….it did not at first but made a lot of sense later. I am pretty use to audio tours in other cities that literally take you step by step where you should be and where to turn…not here though. It will tell you a lot about what you are looking at….but you have to find it first. There is so much stuff in this place….you could spend a day or two just here. I think I skipped entire museums (because I couldn’t find them) and the crowds really annoyed me (it has been reconfirmed that I have a general dislike for people, which is odd considering my chosen profession) but I saw everything I needed to.

One of those ceilings.

The Vatican Museums are former palaces for Popes of the past. Most rooms have some connection to one pope or another and rooms changed as the tastes of the popes changed. Some times the rooms, the walls and/or ceilings are the only things on display but each gives you a feeling of great times of the past.

The purpose and style of this room has changed several times over the years. Now it is home to a whole lot of statues.

Highlights for me included the rooms by Raphael and/or his students. Many of the rooms were commissioned for him to complete but he died before he could do it. Many were finished by his students, off sketches that he drew.

Of course the biggest highlight is the Sistine Chapel and the ceiling painted by Michelangelo. I had no idea what it would really be and look like, standing in a room looking up at what I have only known from books or movies or TV. I stood breathless for what seemed like a long time. I listened to every word the audio tour told me about that ceiling…..and heard none of it. And there is nothing more I can say.

Once I left the Vatican things got a little dicey for me. We have already discussed my complete inability to navigate and it gets even worse when the sun goes down. I spent at least 30 minutes walking in the wrong direction….. before I realized I was walking in the wrong direction. My 30 minute walk home took…..well lets just say a lot longer. Eventually I did get back and had a great dinner just down the street. I can honestly say there is nothing half a litre of wine can’t solve.

One of the random things I walked by when I was lost. I think it is a church but I am not sure.

Julie

Excuse me...can you tell me where I am?

Monday, October 13, 2008
Rome Italy

Well I have managed to survive my first day in Rome. WOW. First thing was finding the little café where I could get breakfast. Nothing fancy but included with my room so it will do. The people are very nice. Croissant, fresh squeezed orange juice and cappuccino. And right off the start I have reaffirmed that I do not like cappuccino. Tomorrow I will have to ask for tea.

I spent most of the day walking…..in circles. I am really finding the city hard to navigate. I can read a map ok but navigating is certainly not something I do well. Not that I didn’t know that before but now it has been solidified in my mind. I should find a compass tomorrow. Maybe that will help.

Random garbage and recycling bins. Probably not that random but they are when you are wandering around a new city.

I did manage to find some internet access. Seems to be very plentiful around the Station Termi (main train station) but not anywhere else. Oh well…not a big deal. I think it should be about a 30 minute walk to most things from where I am staying. I am actually closer in than I originally thought. I will be avoiding the metro here if possible.

Look stairs. I have a feeling I will be getting very familiar with stairs while I am here.

Castel Sant'Angelo

My wandering did take me to a couple big sights, the Fontana di Trevi and the Piazza di Spagna (The Spanish steps). And I am sure you know I found them by accident.

Fontana di Trevi

The sun setting over the Vatican.

What I can find very easily throughout the city…...homemade pasta and really good pizza. I love it.

I'm still finding the name of this building.....I found it by accident so I will work on that.

Julie